Snowpeak PP30

Chewy said:
My god, you only need a rough outline of the action to sort out the grip inlet! 😁
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Well, I know that, and you know that, but does my 3D CAD software know that? No! It just keeps letting me create overly detailed 3D models without stopping me, when I could be doing something much more useful.
 
I 3D printed my Walther LP500 style grip today, and it fits my hand really nicely. When I switch back to the stock grip it just doesn't feel right any more, even though I quite like the stock grip. The new grip doesn't look quite right - it sits quite low on the gun - but there's not a huge amount I can do about that really. Now I'm in a quandry though, because if I stick with the new grip I'm going to have to cut the nice fitted case. Obviously having a good grip is more important than a pretty case, but it's hard to do that when it's so new!
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fatherjack said:
I 3D printed my Walther LP500 style grip today, and it fits my hand really nicely. When I switch back to the stock grip it just doesn't feel right any more, even though I quite like the stock grip. The new grip doesn't look quite right - it sits quite low on the gun - but there's not a huge amount I can do about that really. Now I'm in a quandry though, because if I stick with the new grip I'm going to have to cut the nice fitted case. Obviously having a good grip is more important than a pretty case, but it's hard to do that when it's so new!
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is the foam glued in, if not you should be able to get some more and keep the original
i normally hate layer lines on prints but that actually makes it look a bit like wood grain and i bet it helps with grip aha, cracking job man
 
The grip certainly looks the part, except it's far too low.
 
bill57 said:
The grip certainly looks the part, except it's far too low.
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It looks too low, but that's because the LP500 has a really small block and the PP30 has a big one, so my finger lines up just right with the trigger. It doesn't look great like that though.
 
What’s the verdict on the pp30? Tempted to get one… do you know if the supplied grip is compliant with the new regs?
 
I'm loving it so far.

The grip probably isn't compliant with the new regs — there's no 30° cut. (But the regs don't say what it's 30° to…)

I've had two problems so far. The first was that after about 3 fills the o-ring snapped on the place that the cylinder screws to the pistol. That was an easy fix, since it comes with spares.

The second was that the grub screw holding the bar that the cocking lever pushes against to push the pellet probe back got loose and started to jam (made it very hard to pull the cocking lever), which then made the screw that holds the cocking lever come loose, and the track in the cocking lever started to wear so it isn't so smooth. I fixed this by tightening both screws, using a dab of loctite on the threads to stop them coming loose again, and a tiny bit of moly grease so the lever works smoothly (or at least, smoothish).

At the moment the only things I want to do are to modify the grip a little (either the stock one or my 3D printed one - neither are quite right for me yet), and I'd like to reduce the second-stage travel of the trigger a little (and probably polish the sear while I'm in there). But for that I need to punch out a pin, and I don't feel like doing that to my pistol just yet.
 
fatherjack said:
I've had two problems so far. The first was that after about 3 fills the o-ring snapped on the place that the cylinder screws to the pistol. That was an easy fix, since it comes with spares.

The second was that the grub screw holding the bar that the cocking lever pushes against to push the pellet probe back got loose and started to jam (made it very hard to pull the cocking lever), which then made the screw that holds the cocking lever come loose, and the track in the cocking lever started to wear so it isn't so smooth. I fixed this by tightening both screws, using a dab of loctite on the threads to stop them coming loose again, and a tiny bit of moly grease so the lever works smoothly (or at least, smoothish).
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The PP20 suffers with all these same issues. Assuming that it's similar in design to the pp20 - I would also get some thread lock on the hammer adjust screw on the back, as mine had a habit of slowly walking its way out over a few hundred shots. (Count the number of turns out so you can put it back in the same without adjusting power :))

I wonder if you too can swap the air cylinder for the PP700SA one. I've added that to my PP20, and I go through a lot fewer o-rings!
Maybe I'll save some money and just see if I can retrofit the sights from a pp30 to my pp20
:D
 
How can you so relaxed and tolerant about all these issues with a £600 pistol?
 
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Bazzatron said:
The PP20 suffers with all these same issues. Assuming that it's similar in design to the pp20 - I would also get some thread lock on the hammer adjust screw on the back, as mine had a habit of slowly walking its way out over a few hundred shots. (Count the number of turns out so you can put it back in the same without adjusting power :))

I wonder if you too can swap the air cylinder for the PP700SA one. I've added that to my PP20, and I go through a lot fewer o-rings!
Maybe I'll save some money and just see if I can retrofit the sights from a pp30 to my pp20
:D
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The PP30 isn't very similar in design to the PP20 at all — I can't see many common parts. The hammer adjust screw is held in place by a couple of grubscrews, so it should stay put.

I should be able to use the PP700SA cylinder on the PP30 (you can use PP20 and Steyr cylinders), but I think the o-ring was already damaged when I got it, so I'm not expecting it to wear out regularly.

The PP20 and PP30 sights look very similar, so I'm not sure why you'd want to retrofit them. Unless they only look similar.

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Inspector71 said:
How can you be content with all these issues with a £600 pistol?
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I don't mind an o-ring failing because it's easy to replace, and I'd have to mess around the the grip on any pistol, so the only real issue was the grub screw coming loose, and I've sorted that. The trigger isn't an issue (it's a thousand times better than the trigger on my old PP800R), but I think I could still improve on it.

Anyway, I don't think there's anything else around that price point that I'd rather have.
 
But are you not worried that there will be more issues in future and there is no OEM service or spares support?
 
with what ive been finding from looking into getting a budget 10m pistol im avoiding the snowpeak ones and the precihole is looking like a more reliable option
 
It's the height of the block and the ugliness of the Precihole that put me off, even though I have a sneaking suspicion that it might actually be a better pistol! But I'm (more than) happy with my PP30, and I'm not really worried about future issues — I've now had most of it apart (because I'm nosy and wanted to know how it works), and it doesn't look like there are any looming problems.
 
yh if you've already got the pp30 may as well keep using it, yeah the stock grip is pretty ugly but easy to get a wood one that makes it look drastically better, also prefer the way it dose the dry fire with a selector button rather than snowpeaks putting the lever in the right position
 
Yeah, I'll keep using the PP30, and hopefully it'll fail in a few years when I'm just about ready to upgrade to a Walther PP500 or similar!

I quite like the PP30's way of doing dry firing. No special levers or buttons - just lift the normal cocking lever half way and then push it all the way back down.
 
I understand that that the PP55 from Precihole is very well made. Bob P does an aftermarket adjustable grip for £30.
 
Inspector71 said:
I understand that that the PP55 from Precihole is very well made. Bob P does an aftermarket adjustable grip for £30.
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not a bad option for a printed one though with how popular it is in india its fairly cheap to import a nice wood one if i do get the pp55 and cant find a uk guy to make one
 
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