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the Daily hi thread
Fed up of FDM want to try Resin
- Thread starter Ashley
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jchu_1988
Super member
I only have used the Formlabs Wave 3 at work.
Looking at the Mito fill port print you did, it looks very good. What issues are you having? Had an Ender 3 V2 myself 2 years ago which was my workhouse until I outgrew it and got the CR6SE so might be able to help.
Bests, John
Looking at the Mito fill port print you did, it looks very good. What issues are you having? Had an Ender 3 V2 myself 2 years ago which was my workhouse until I outgrew it and got the CR6SE so might be able to help.
Bests, John
My main issues are adhesion to the bed and stringing, it's a complete guess as to whether or not anything will stick including rafts and I'm just fed up of it. A mate has a Elegoo Mars and he printed something and it worked first time with no issues. Seems like a lot less hassle
Do you need help? I have 2 Enders and very happy with them. Happy to spend some time to figure it out what’s wrong.
If you decide to flog it, let me know.
jchu_1988
Super member
What material are you printing?
Bad adhesion and stringing could be wet filament ( tell tale sign would be it snap, crackles and pops when filament is run through the hotend.
Are you using the standard bed? If yes, flip it over so glass is facing up, tram the bed, use a thin layer of pritt stick and print a 30 mm cube and we can go from there.
Bad adhesion and stringing could be wet filament ( tell tale sign would be it snap, crackles and pops when filament is run through the hotend.
Are you using the standard bed? If yes, flip it over so glass is facing up, tram the bed, use a thin layer of pritt stick and print a 30 mm cube and we can go from there.
I’m using PETG if it’s a solid print (like the plug) it’s pretty faultless, but as soon as it’s bigger than an inch base it doesn’t like to stick and if there’s gaps it strings a lot.
I’ll print a cube later, this is the best HW110 mag so far
I’ll print a cube later, this is the best HW110 mag so far
insertusernamehere
Super member
I had issues with stringing on PETG on my prusa
Put the reels in the bottom of the Rayburn for a day, the difference is night and day. Seriously could not believe it, I now always unload the filament and put it in an airtight bag, but it still needs re-drying regularly (old damp farmhouse)
Get a cheap food dehydrator or something or just put it in the oven on very low.
This is the nearest thing to an example I can do, blue is wet, black is dried
Put the reels in the bottom of the Rayburn for a day, the difference is night and day. Seriously could not believe it, I now always unload the filament and put it in an airtight bag, but it still needs re-drying regularly (old damp farmhouse)
Get a cheap food dehydrator or something or just put it in the oven on very low.
This is the nearest thing to an example I can do, blue is wet, black is dried
Why PETG? Have you tried with PLA? Baby steps until you are comfortable. You have a good printer, can be temperamental but that is the case with all 3D printers.I’m using PETG if it’s a solid print (like the plug) it’s pretty faultless, but as soon as it’s bigger than an inch base it doesn’t like to stick and if there’s gaps it strings a lot.
I’ll print a cube later, this is the best HW110 mag so far
Gilly
Super member
That looks like temp and retraction setting issues to me. Not to teach anyone to suck eggs, but you can't use the same settings for big and small prints, you'll need to modify them slightly to account for the part cooling more between layers and the longer moves.I’m using PETG if it’s a solid print (like the plug) it’s pretty faultless, but as soon as it’s bigger than an inch base it doesn’t like to stick and if there’s gaps it strings a lot.
I’ll print a cube later, this is the best HW110 mag so far
As for adhesion, what build surface and surface prep are you using? what gap do you have between the build surface and nozzle? I use glass and ABS slurry for PetG, PLA and ABS, nylon I use pritstick and only ever use a setting of 0.2mm for first layer with the gap set to the thickness of a piece of average printer paper. If I get a problem with adhesion on a print it's usually the opposite issue, stuff occasionally sticks too well!!
jchu_1988
Super member
Stringing with PETG is normal. Stringing like that isn't. Points to issue with excess temperature, flow or retraction, or bad material.
Did you tune the printer for the filament?
Retraction towers, temp towers?
Did you tune the printer for the filament?
Retraction towers, temp towers?
gb2017
Super member
Have the elegoo mars 3 pro, its very good, quality of prints is great, will just need to practise with print angles and supports to optimise prints, but very pleased with it, tho it does need a ventilated area or the low odour resins
Anglia Tackle and Gun
Proactive member
The quality between a fdm and a resin is massive, but ones fine detail and the other is good for bulk
I started with PLA which i did get down quite well, but I found the durability poor such as in my car things would melt in the sun so wanted something more durable against temperatures hence the swap to Petg.
I’m using eryone filament and I have had it a while. I’ll try drying it out.
I’ve tried every temperature from 230 to 245 (in increments of 5) with a bed temp of 70.
I don’t print anything big so the ease of resin is attractive
sorry forgot to add it’s a glass bed
I’m using eryone filament and I have had it a while. I’ll try drying it out.
I’ve tried every temperature from 230 to 245 (in increments of 5) with a bed temp of 70.
I don’t print anything big so the ease of resin is attractive
sorry forgot to add it’s a glass bed
Roguetrooper
Proactive member
Resin can be quite brittle, would need to add tenacious if the part is for functional use.
I've got a Voxelab Proxima 6 it's great for printing bits. It worked virtually straight out of the box only needed one levelling. Couple of points though, resin is messy and it can smell while printing. The obvious answer is to put it in the garage but it is recommended to print in an ambient temp around 20'. Strength wise it's strong but corners and fine detail can be brittle. Think similar to a boiled sweet and you will be about right though there are different resins and mixes you can use to help with this. Other main difference is the relatively small build area . That said detail is brilliant, it's much easier to get a good print and you don't have to endlessly mess about with it. My PLA printer does my head in too.
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I've done a bit of investigating and found my esteps were a little out and my fan shroud was cracked. I've fixed the esteps and sorting the fan shroud now so will start again with a stringing test. Hopefully this can be sorted!
I have a prusa so it has the coating on both sides and a magnetic plate so job pops off when done on the sheet. If the beds clean enough (well iso cleaned) it sticks lovely. Could you try some of those on your bed? I know you can buy the sheets and I've had the same side on the go for a good while. On my old bed which was the same without the removal feature I had a few jobs too well stuck down.
And are you cleaning it with the right stuff? I had issues when using EVERYTHING but iso to clean the bed. Plenty online say this and that was ok but Iso all the way for me. Always seemed to be some chemical residue that affected the stick otherwise. I've never use pritsticks either.
Maybe worth a go for you over your glass? You could just stick it on i bet so it comes off if the bed or make a plate to bolt on ya bed with it stuck onto that like prusa do
My bed is manky as it hasn't been used in months so ignore that
The bed has recessed magnets on these so the thin steel coated plate pops off easy.
And are you cleaning it with the right stuff? I had issues when using EVERYTHING but iso to clean the bed. Plenty online say this and that was ok but Iso all the way for me. Always seemed to be some chemical residue that affected the stick otherwise. I've never use pritsticks either.
Maybe worth a go for you over your glass? You could just stick it on i bet so it comes off if the bed or make a plate to bolt on ya bed with it stuck onto that like prusa do
My bed is manky as it hasn't been used in months so ignore that
The bed has recessed magnets on these so the thin steel coated plate pops off easy.
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I try not to use any chemicals on the bed unless it really won’t stick at all, then I’ll use either IPA or panel wipe and make sure to use a clean cloth to make sure no residue is left behind.
After fixing the shroud I noticed the Creality BL Touch thing wasn’t quite as tight as it should have been, must have come loose over time, so that’s the shroud fixed, no touch sorted and the e steps calibrated. It was then way out of level and was whacking the build plate, so I’ve adjusted the offset and take a bit off.
Then I printed a temp tower, what would you guys choose as the best? It seems 220 is best but that’s low for petg?
Next steps will be the flow I think!
After fixing the shroud I noticed the Creality BL Touch thing wasn’t quite as tight as it should have been, must have come loose over time, so that’s the shroud fixed, no touch sorted and the e steps calibrated. It was then way out of level and was whacking the build plate, so I’ve adjusted the offset and take a bit off.
Then I printed a temp tower, what would you guys choose as the best? It seems 220 is best but that’s low for petg?
Next steps will be the flow I think!